Reflecting on My Pilgrimage to Baba Bakala Sahib on the Auspicious Occasion of "Rakhar Puniya"

9-Storey Bhora Sahib Gurudwara in Baba Bakala: 'Taposthan' of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji

Felicitations on the occasion of “Rakhar Puniya”

Greetings to one and all on the auspicious occasion of "Rakhar Puniya," when the annual gathering ("Jor Mela") held on the full moon (Puniya or Pooranmashi) of the month of Bhadon at Sri Baba Bakala Sahib. My head bows in reverence to the Ninth Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib, whose life and legacy are intimately connected with this sacred place in the Amritsar district, just a few miles away from the Beas bridge.

As I reflect on this day, my mind goes back to my visit to this holy site a year ago, and I take this opportunity to share with you what I wrote then.

Introduction: Today (28th June, 2023), I had the incredible privilege of visiting the sacred Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib in Baba Bakala, a town in Amritsar district, steeped in Sikh history and associated with the revered ninth Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji. This journey became a virtual spiritual pilgrimage— a profound experience that filled my heart with immense blessings and ignited a surge of devotion within me. In this narrative, I will share the captivating story of Baba Bakala and the discovery of the true Ninth Guru, as well as the significance of Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib. Along the way, I will also incorporate personal reflections, photos, and videos to help capture the essence of this soul-stirring journey.

A Historic Haven of Sikh Spirituality: Baba Bakala, a town resonating with historical significance, became the dwelling place of the Sixth Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji and later, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, during the 1640s. It was a vibrant town adorned with beautiful pools, wells, and ‘baolis’, radiating a sense of prosperity and tranquility. Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, along with his wife and mother, led a life of strict devotion and meditation in Bakala, while still attending to his family responsibilities and making visits to other places in the east such as Patna¹ in Bihar and Assam and also Delhi, where he met Sri Guru Harkrishan Ji, the eighth Sikh Guru, also known as the “Bal Guru”, twice.

The Ambiguity and the Pretenders: During his stay in Delhi, Guru Harkrishan Ji, who was barely 8 years old, fell ill with smallpox. When asked about his successor, he cryptically replied, "Baba Bakale," indicating that the next Guru would be found in Bakala. He merged with the Almighty on March 30, 1664. Seizing upon this ambiguity, several pretenders emerged, claiming to be the ninth Sikh Guru. Around 22 individuals proclaimed themselves as the true Guru, including Dhir Mall, the influential nephew of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji. The perplexed Sikh community found themselves at a loss, unable to discern the identity of the rightful Guru amidst the sea of claimants.

The Arrival of Baba Makhan Shah Labana: Amidst the confusion and chaos, a significant turning point arrived with the arrival of Baba Makhan Shah Labana, a trader hailing from the Jhelum district. His life took a transformative turn when his ship faced a fierce storm, and he fervently prayed to God and Guru Nanak for safety. In his prayers, he vowed to donate five hundred dinars to the Guru for charitable purposes if he reached the nearest port unscathed. True to his word, the ship landed safely, and Baba Makhan Shah Labana made his way to Delhi, where he learned of Guru Harkrishan Ji's passing and his statement about the next Guru residing in Bakala.

The True Guru Revealed: Bound by his pledge, Baba Makhan Shah Labana decided to offer only two Dinars to each claimant, earnestly hoping that the true Guru would be undoubtedly aware of the exact amount he had vowed to donate. The impostors, lacking spiritual insight and character, would settle for the two golden mohurs. As expected, none of the pretenders recognized him as the rightful donor. However, Baba Makhan Shah Labana faced a dilemma—where was the true Guru if none of these men were authentic? It was then that a child informed him about a holy man named Tegh Bahadur, meditating nearby, who made no such claims about himself.

A Life-Altering Encounter: Baba Makhan Shah Labana approached Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji and offered him two golden pieces as he did with the impostors. To his surprise, Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji politely chided him, stating that he had broken his promise. The Guru reminded him of the 500 gold pieces he had vowed to donate when praying for his safety during the storm. Moved by the Guru's words, Baba Makhan Shah Labana proclaimed that he would inform everyone about finding the true Guru, despite Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji's warning that it could lead to dishonor. Undeterred, Baba Makhan Shah Labana marked his devotion by putting ash on his face and ascending to the rooftop, where he proclaimed to the entire village of Bakala, "Guru Ladho Rae"² (meaning "Found the Guru" in Lubanki, the language of the Labanas). This bold act led to the mass exodus of the false and self-styled “gurus”, leaving behind the village now known as Baba Bakala

.

Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib: A Sanctuary of Divine Presence: It was at this very location that Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji chose to reside, meditating on the divine name for an astounding span of 26 years, 9 months, and 13 days. Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib stands as a testament to this significant period in Sikh history. Today, the Gurdwara boasts a nine-floor building, symbolizing the spiritual heights and divine connection experienced by the ninth Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji during his stay. The tranquil atmosphere, the rhythmic chanting of Gurbani, and the spiritual energy exuded by this hallowed place enveloped me in a profound sense of awe and reverence.

A Personal Journey of Blessings and Devotion: As I stepped into Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib, a wave of gratitude engulfed me. I felt truly blessed to be standing on this sacred ground, where the true Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, resided, meditated and graced humanity with his divine wisdom. The profound history and spiritual significance of this place stirred my soul, deepening my devotion and strengthening my faith. The ambiance resonated with love, unity, and reverence, as devotees from all walks of life came together to pay homage and seek solace in the eternal teachings of Sikhism.

Parting Words: My visit to Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib in Baba Bakala has been an unforgettable journey, etching indelible memories of spiritual bliss and divine connection in my heart. The discovery of the true Guru by Baba Makhan Shah Labana stands as a testament to the unwavering faith and devotion of the followers of Sikhism. Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib, with its serene ambiance and rich historical significance, serves as a beacon of enlightenment and a sanctuary for all seekers of truth. May the blessings of Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji continue to guide and inspire us on our own spiritual paths, leading us towards unity, compassion, and eternal peace.

TO VIEW MY YOUTUBE (SHORTS) VIDEO CLIPS, WITH ORIGINAL SOUND, CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUZha0-2LLO2aSrDCVD-suul7Rw0NF3aI

(To open. Highlight. Right click. Choose ‘Go to’)

---

TEXT: derived from SGPC boards at the Gurudwara Sahib and https://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_bhora_sahib_baba_bakala.html

Wires and scaffolding edited out— with some loss of resolution.

1. Gobind Rai (later Guru Gobind Singh ji) was born on December 22, 1666, in Patna, India. His mother's name was Mata Gujri ji.

2. Most historians agree to the date of April 16, 1664.