Auspicious Occasion of the Ascension to Guruship of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji: Reflecting on my Pilgrimage to Baba Bakala Sahib
9-Storey Bhora Sahib Gurudwara in Baba Bakala: 'Taposthan' of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji
Felicitations on the Auspicious Occasion of the Ascension to Guruship of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji
Warm greetings to all on this most revered day — the auspicious occasion marking the ascension to Guruship (Gurta Diwas – ਗੁਰਤਾ ਦਿਵਸ) of the Ninth Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji. My head bows in deep reverence to Sri Baba Bakala Sahib, a sacred site forever sanctified by the Guru’s marathon meditation and divine preparation for the responsibilities of Guruship.
Located in the Amritsar district, just a few miles from the Beas bridge, Baba Bakala is not merely a geographical location but a spiritual epicenter where Sikh history was profoundly transformed with the revelation of the true Guru. It is here that the divine light of Guruship was bestowed upon Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji — a moment that continues to guide and inspire generations of Sikh worldwide.
As I reflect on the significance of this remarkable day in the recorded history of Sikhism, I’m drawn back to my previous personal pilgrimage to Baba Bakala Sahib, and feel moved to share once again the thoughts I had penned after that spiritually uplifting visit.
Introduction
On 28th June 2023, I had the incredible privilege of visiting the sacred Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib in Baba Bakala, a historic town in the Amritsar district deeply intertwined with the life and legacy of the revered Ninth Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji. The visit unfolded as a deeply spiritual pilgrimage — an experience that left my heart brimming with blessings and stirred a profound sense of devotion within me. In the reflections that follow, I recount the captivating story of Baba Bakala and the revelation of the true Guru, as well as the spiritual and historical significance of Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib. Interwoven with this narrative are personal insights, along with photographs and videos, in an effort to capture the essence of a journey that touched the soul.
A Historic Haven of Sikh Spirituality
Baba Bakala, a town resonating with historical significance, became the dwelling place of the Sixth Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji and later, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, during the 1640s. It was a vibrant town adorned with beautiful pools, wells, and ‘baolis’, radiating a sense of prosperity and tranquility. Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, along with his wife and mother, led a life of strict devotion and meditation in Bakala, while still attending to his family responsibilities and making visits to other places in the east such as Patna1 in Bihar and Assam and also Delhi, where he met Sri Guru Harkrishan Ji, the eighth Sikh Guru, also known as the “Bal Guru”, twice.
The Ambiguity and the Pretenders
Following the divine merging (Jyoti Jot Samāṇā) of Sri Guru Har Krishan Sahib Ji, there was confusion among the Sikh sangat regarding the next Guru, especially since Guru Sahib had only cryptically uttered “Baba Bakala” when asked who the next Guru would be. This led to a period of uncertainty, during which around 22 individuals falsely proclaimed themselves as the rightful Guru. Among them was Dhir Mall, the elder son of Baba Gurditta Ji, and therefore the grandson of Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji. This made him the nephew of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji.
Dhir Mall had long harboured ambitions of Guruship, believing it was his rightful inheritance by lineage. He even possessed an early manuscript of the Adi Granth, which he used to bolster his claims. However, his assertion lacked divine sanction, humility, and the spiritual merit that characterized the line of true Gurus.
It was in this climate of confusion that Bhai Makhan Shah Labana arrived at Baba Bakala and, through his inspired test of offering two gold coins, helped identify Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji as the rightful Ninth Guru — a moment now revered as Gurta Diwas (ਗੁਰਤਾ ਦਿਵਸ).
The Arrival of Baba Makhan Shah Labana
Amidst the confusion and chaos, a significant turning point arrived with the arrival of Baba Makhan Shah Labana, a trader hailing from the Jhelum district. His life took a transformative turn when his ship faced a fierce storm, and he fervently prayed to God and Guru Nanak for safety. In his prayers, he vowed to donate five hundred dinars to the Guru for charitable purposes if he reached the nearest port unscathed. True to his word, the ship landed safely, and Baba Makhan Shah Labana made his way to Delhi, where he learned of Guru Harkrishan Ji's passing and his statement about the next Guru residing in Bakala.
The True Guru Revealed
Bound by his pledge, Baba Makhan Shah Labana decided to offer only two Dinars to each claimant, earnestly hoping that the true Guru would be undoubtedly aware of the exact amount he had vowed to donate. The impostors, lacking spiritual insight and character, would settle for the two golden mohurs. As expected, none of the pretenders recognized him as the rightful donor. However, Baba Makhan Shah Labana faced a dilemma—where was the true Guru if none of these men were authentic? It was then that a child informed him about a holy man named Tegh Bahadur, meditating nearby, who made no such claims about himself.
A Life-Altering Encounter
Baba Makhan Shah Labana approached Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji and offered him two golden pieces as he did with the impostors. To his surprise, Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji politely chided him, stating that he had broken his promise. The Guru reminded him of the 500 gold pieces he had vowed to donate when praying for his safety during the storm. Moved by the Guru's words, Baba Makhan Shah Labana proclaimed that he would inform everyone about finding the true Guru, despite Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji's warning that it could lead to dishonor. Undeterred, Baba Makhan Shah Labana marked his devotion by putting ash on his face and ascending to the rooftop, where he proclaimed to the entire village of Bakala, "Guru Ladho Rae"2 (meaning "Found the Guru" in Lubanki, the language of the Labanas). This bold act led to the mass exodus of the false and self-styled “gurus”, leaving behind the village now known as Baba Bakala
.
Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib: A Sanctuary of Divine Presence
It was at this very location that Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji chose to reside, meditating on the divine name for an astounding span of 26 years, 9 months, and 13 days. Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib stands as a testament to this significant period in Sikh history. Today, the Gurdwara boasts a nine-floor building, symbolizing the spiritual heights and divine connection experienced by the ninth Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji during his stay. The tranquil atmosphere, the rhythmic chanting of Gurbani, and the spiritual energy exuded by this hallowed place enveloped me in a profound sense of awe and reverence.
The Significance of the Rakhar Puniya Mela
The annual Rakhar Puniya Mela, held on the full moon (Puranmashi) of the Bhadon month, brings together thousands of devotees to Sri Baba Bakala Sahib in a vibrant expression of faith and community. While its roots lie in agrarian thanksgiving and familial bonding, the mela gains deeper spiritual resonance from its association with this sacred town — the very place where Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji meditated in divine stillness, and where the truth of Guruship was ultimately revealed. In this confluence of tradition and transcendence, Rakhar Puniya becomes more than a rural fair — it becomes a reminder of the Guru’s quiet strength and the community’s enduring devotion.
A Personal Journey of Blessings and Devotion
As I stepped into Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib, a wave of gratitude engulfed me. I felt truly blessed to be standing on this sacred ground, where the true Guru, Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji, resided, meditated and graced humanity with his divine wisdom. The profound history and spiritual significance of this place stirred my soul, deepening my devotion and strengthening my faith. The ambiance resonated with love, unity, and reverence, as devotees from all walks of life came together to pay homage and seek solace in the eternal teachings of Sikhism.
Parting Words
My visit to Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib in Baba Bakala remains an unforgettable spiritual journey, leaving indelible impressions of divine serenity and inner awakening. On this sacred Gurta Diwas (ਗੁਰਤਾ ਦਿਵਸ) — the day commemorating the ascension of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji to Guruship — one is reminded of the miraculous moment when Bhai Makhan Shah Labana, guided by unwavering devotion, recognized the true Guru. This revelation, born of faith and humility, continues to inspire generations of seekers. Gurdwara Sri Bhora Sahib, imbued with the stillness of Guru Sahib’s deep meditation, stands as a radiant beacon of truth and enlightenment. May the grace of Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji forever illuminate our path, drawing us toward unity, compassion, and lasting peace.
TO VIEW MY YOUTUBE (SHORTS) VIDEO CLIPS, WITH ORIGINAL SOUND, CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUZha0-2LLO2aSrDCVD-suul7Rw0NF3aI
(To open. Highlight. Right click. Choose ‘Go to’)
TEXT: derived from SGPC boards at the Gurudwara Sahib and https://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_bhora_sahib_baba_bakala.html
Wires and scaffolding edited out— with some loss of resolution.
Gobind Rai (later Guru Gobind Singh ji) was born on December 22, 1666, in Patna, India. His mother's name was Mata Gujri ji.
Most historians agree to the date of April 16, 1664.