When the Humble Kolhapuris Took Off—and Landed on Prada’s Runway
If Milan can put Kolhapuri on a pedestal, Kolhapur can surely put itself on the global stage— this time, with full credit, full value, and both feet firmly planted in pride.
By Karan Bir Singh Sidhu
Retired IAS officer with four decades in governance. Focused on rural artisanship, ethical trade, and India's cultural footprint in global fashion — and a lifelong fan of P.G. Wodehouse.
The Kolhapuris Shake Prada’s Ramp
At Prada’s Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 show in Milan, held on 22 June 2025, models strode down the catwalk in flat, tan leather sandals that looked suspiciously familiar. With their broad toe-ring, T-strap, and hand-stitched soles, these were, to the trained Indian eye, unmistakably Kolhapuri chappals — the iconic footwear of Maharashtra’s artisanal belt.
The show notes, however, demurely described them as “leather sandals.” The Internet wasn’t buying it. And neither were the 20,000 Kolhapuri artisans back home, who know their legacy when they see it.
A 13ᵗʰ-century craft crashes a 21ˢᵗ-century runway
The Kolhapuri chappal, named for the princely town of Kolhapur, is no newcomer to global attention — but it rarely turns heads this high up the fashion ladder. Made from vegetable-tanned buffalo hide, stitched without nails, and often produced in cottage workshops using techniques passed down for generations, the Kolhapuri is as rugged as it is refined. Since 2019, it has held a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which recognises its regional and artisanal distinctiveness.
Still, nobody expected it to stroll onto Milan’s glossed runway under the Prada banner — with no footnote, no nod, not even a faint namaste.
Sticker shock and side-eyes
Back in Kolhapur, you can pick up a handmade pair for ₹1,000–₹4,000. On Amazon U.S., similar styles go for $30–$46. But Prada’s version, leaked via press kits, came priced at a stratospheric ₹1.2 lakh (roughly US $1,445). That’s about 40 times the global retail average — or, as some wag on X (formerly Twitter) put it, “the price of 70 chappals, one runway.”
Credit where it's (eventually) due
The backlash was swift and unusually bipartisan. NCP Supremo Sharad Pawar weighed in, as did Kolhapur royalty Sambhaji Raje. Fashion historians called it “daylight design theft.” The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce sent Prada a formal letter demanding acknowledgement. Two days later, the brand’s CSR chief, Lorenzo Bertelli, responded. Yes, the design drew inspiration from “India’s centuries-old sandal-making tradition.” No, it was not yet finalised for production. And yes, Prada would be “open to dialogue” with Indian artisans.
Which is fashion-PR speak for: we got caught with our chappals off.
Why this matters more than mere runway drama
Behind the witty hashtags and designer memes lies a real issue: Indian artisans are often the invisible hands behind global trends — underpaid, uncredited, and unrepresented. Leather-working communities, historically marginalised and caste-stigmatised, carry forward these craft traditions without the legal muscle or branding firepower to claim their fair share. The Kolhapuri chappal is not just footwear — it’s living heritage, turned into high-margin product without so much as a thank-you.
A path forward: federate, brand, and walk tall — on Indian terms
India’s Kolhapuri artisans already hold the GI; now they need the GQ — Global Quotient. This isn’t a call for retaliation; it’s an invitation for reinvention.
What’s needed is a National Federation of Kolhapuri Artisans and Producers that can:
Pool resources for sustainable leather sourcing, better tools, and scalable design upgrades.
Set floor prices for domestic and international sales, ensuring fair returns.
Run coordinated marketing, telling the 800-year Kolhapuri story — not just as folklore, but as a living design legacy.
And let’s give it a name they’ll remember
Why not turn the tables on Prada with a cheeky, rooted brand like “Desi ADARP” — Alliance of Design Artisans for Rural Prosperity — or the snappier “DAPRA”: Design Artisans for Preservation and Rural Advancement? Either way, it’s PRADA spelt backwards and justice spelt forward.
If Milan can put Kolhapuri on a pedestal, Kolhapur can surely put itself on the global stage— this time, with full credit, full value, and both feet firmly planted in pride.